Wafuku Question: Kamishimo

I was asked by spring-sky on DeviantArt about this kind of japanese period outfit:

This outfit is called Kamishimo. It's a combination of hakama pants and kataginu, a sleevless jacket, both made in the same fabric, worn over the kimono (ancient kimono was called kosode, or "small sleeves"). Kamishimo was worn daily by samurai men during the Muromachi, Sengoku and Momoyama periods (aprox. from 1337 to 1603). It could have various colors and patterns, and sometimes had the owner's kamon (family crest) on both sides of the chest/shoulders, and in the middle back of the kataginu.

Samurai from Sengoku period wearing kamishimo

(from the japanese drama Gou: Himetachi no Sengoku).

 

Notice the kamon on the shoulders and middle back of the 

kataginu jacket (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Another example (from the movie Kagemusha). 

These photo examples I found of kamishimo are quide subdued color-wise, but in those times, it was also common for men to wear gaudier colors and patterns, specially among upper classes. The two next photos don't show kamishimo, but the formal outfit for samurai in the Muromachi-Momoyama period, named hitatare. But it serves as an approximated example of the "flashy" styles that could be worn back then (althou, since kamishimo was more casual, it probably didn't go that far, gaudy-wise).

 

From the movie The Kiyosu Conference. Two

subdued and two "flashy" hitatare formal outfits.

 

Another gaudy hitatare, from the movie Kagemusha.

Sengoku samurai didn't fear bright orange tones! XD

 In Edo period (1603-1868), the subdued colors like grayish blue, gray and brown became "the rule" for male outfits, as well as more discrete patterns. Kamishimo became no longer daily, but formal outfit for samurai. The kataginu front pannels became more narrow, and the shoulders of the garment turned into wide, firm "wings".

Samurai in ceremonial kamishimo from Edo period. Notice the wide shoulders and long hakama (naga-bakama). In less formal occasions, normal hakama, that allowed one to walk easily, was worn (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Photography of samurai, from Edo period (from National Geographic) 

wearing a formal kamishimo, with regular hakama.

Edo kamishimo (from the movie The Sword of Desperation).

So, this is the basics about kamishimo. The info I referenced is from The Sengoku Daimyo, an amazing site with tons of historical info on Japan, so if you want to see more on the subject, I highly recommend it!

I hope this was useful, spring-sky! ^^