Happy New Year 2014!

Thank you all my old and new followers for your support! I hope in 2014 this blog will grow even better, with more art, more info and lots of more kimono! ^^

A happy holiday season and New Year!!!

For this picture I chose to portray Matsu Gasane, a Kasane no Irome (Heian period color layering for court ladies' garment) fit for festive occasions! 

...This is also a little sneak-peek of my next Kasane no Irome improved charts! ;)

Types of Kimono - Komon

After talking about Edo komon, a specific kind of komon almost as formal as iromuji, our next subject is komon.

As mentioned in the previous "Abou Kimono" post, komon is a kimono with repeating patterns all over the fabric. Althou the literal meaning of komon is "small prints", these patterns aren't necessarily small, just repeated - different from a houmongi, for example, were are patterns all over the garment, but they don't have a repetitive look.

 

A pink komon. The floral pattern is repeated all over the garment.

For left to right: tsukesage, were motifs are repeated, but only in few spots over the kimono; komon, with repetitive patterns all over the garment; and houmongi, with lot of patterns arranged in non repetitive fashion (in this case, a flowing "stream" over the kimono, a common arrange also for furisode motifs).

Komon patterns can vary a lot: full or sparse, geometric or not, arranged in stripes or "splashed" all over the fabric, big or small, bright or discrete... As usual in kimono aesthetics, the bigger the patterns the younger is the look (and so should be the wearer).

 Two komon with an autumn feel.

 

Sparse-patterned, delicate komon, and bright crowded komon!

 

A komon with geometric motifs, and one with flowers organized in vertical "stripes". 

This style of pattern arrange is very common in komon (lol, pun not intended... x_x). 

Komon is considered an informal kind of kimono, suited for casual parties, walking in town, go shopping or hang out at home. So, they normally don't have kamon (crests), which add formality. Some komon, thou, can be considered semi-formal* depending on the pattern and fabric. Silk and synthetic fabrics are considered less casual than wool, for example. Gold or silver accents on the motifs also make a komon less casual, as well as the accessories choice.

Being very versatile depending on it's motif and fabric, komon can be paired with almost any kind of obi, from fukuro obi (specially if the obi pattern is casual) to nagoya obi, hanhaba obi, chuya obi or even the super informal heko obi**. It really depend on the combination look and the situation. About musubi, I've seen komon paired with many types, too, which is not surprising for a kind of kimono with such variate formality status... See below (all worn with komon):

The classical taiko musubi...

Tsunodashi/ginza musubi, a less formal variation from taiko, from Soubien...

Bunko musubi, a horizontal high bow... There's a chance this may not be regular komon, but "stage" kimono (for a dance?)... I'm not sure. Anyway, bunko can go with komon. I just couldn't find a pretty clear photo of it. ^^;

Cho (or cho cho) musubi (butterfly knot)***. Also from Soubien...

This... I have no idea! Please allow me to call it foofy mess musubi. X3 From Shimaya. 

Another musubi from Shimaya that is not familiar to me... Oh, I'm such a musubi noob! -_-...

During my research I found in Immortal Geisha (my main info source for this post) that, like houmongi-tsukesage, there's komon hybrids. They were common during Taisho Era (1912-1926), featuring a komon-type repeated pattern all over the kimono and a detailed/richer motif on top of that, in manner of a tsukesage, houmongi or other type of kimono. Therefore, they aren't considered komon, but the more formal type, according to the rich patterns (and crests, if any).

An antique crested komon-irotomesode hybrid, from Immortal Geisha. This is considered 
an irotomesode because of the main motif only below the obi line - in spite of the tiny 
repeated leaves in komon style. To see more of these curious hybrids, visit the link! ^^

Very interesting! I wonder if there are hybrids like that nowadays too...

Well, so this is the basic about komon. These posts are getting bigger and bigger... I guess it's a good thing? ^^; Next part will cover the last basic type and most informal kind of kimono - yukata!

See you soon! ^^


*According to Kidoraku Japan, althou it's technically incorrect, nowadays young women sometimes wear komon with noble designs, that remind tsukesage, to attend to friend's wedding parties.

**I guess I'll have to make a tutorial about obi types, ne?

 ***I just found out this kind of musubi... I used to think this was a bunko! But it seems that bunko knot is tied horizontally, while the bow tied in vertical (like in this photo) is cho musubi. Also, bunko "wings" seem to fall down, while cho musubi has spread "wings" like in a western bowtie.

Graduation kimono set

Graduation set featuring kimono and hakama, found on this online shop: link.
Roses and arrows make one western-influenced (althou quite classical looking) and one traditional japanese motif combination, which creates a very interesting effect... both fashionable and elegant. The colors work so nicely together, too! 

I love how the pearl string motifs visually connect with the little pearls on the eri! 

This detail adds a rich and lovely harmony to the ensemble. <3

On another topic, to all my old and new followers, thank you for your support! ^^

I'm currently fighting through the end-of-semester overwork, but next week I'm hoping to be free enought to post the next part of my kimono tutorials, covering Komon.

Types of Kimono - Edo Komon

After seeing from most formal to gradually semi-formal kinds of kimono - furisode, kurotomesode, irotomesode, houmongi, tsukesage and iromuji - it's time to start covering the more casual types!

Komon, meaning "small pattern", is a generic name for a kimono with repeated patterns all over the fabric. The Edo Komon is a specific kind of komon that became most popular in ancient Tokyo - then named Edo - and has it's patterns formed by thousands of tiny dots.

Edo komon. In the detail shot, countless little white dots that create the pattern can be seen.

In old times, Edo komon was typically blue with white dots. That's because the raw-colored silk was covered in the dot region, then dyed, so the dots would remain white. Now, it also comes in other colors, althou the dots tend to be still white.

Since it's pattern is so small, Edo komon seems to be of solid color from a distance. That makes it almost as formal as iromuji, so it can be worn to casual parties, dinners, graduations (not for the person graduating) and social events. Also like iromuji, it's a quite versatile kind of kimono, becoming more formal if crested, or more informal if paired with casual obi and accessories.

Zooming in the pictures is quite essential in the next examples. ;P *

Edo Komon looks solid from afar but, looking closer, the tiny pattern 

creates a visual texture, and then, up very close, it becomes visible.

Iromuji? Looks like it, but zooming in at the fabric again and again...

There you are, minuscle flower dotted pattern! XD

This example uses an interesting "patchwork" effect with various patterns, all created by dots. Notice how the different dot sizes and configurations provide several textures and shades on the same background color.

This specific dot configuration, in overlapped circles, is called same komon, or "sharkskin" komon. It's very traditional, being used in the samurai ceremonial garment kamishimo in old times.

++ If you're interested, this website has a lovely list of a few traditional and seasonal Edo komon patterns, with example pictures and brief but informative explanations: Hirose Dye-Works.

Edo komon is often worn with taiko musubi - that can be both formal or "daily" musubi, depending on the obi motif/fabric. but I've also seen it worn with tsunodashi/ginza musubi - which would be a good choice to a more informal look. Musubi is not my specialty, but I imagine other kinds of semi-formal and casual knots may be adequate too, if the situation is informal. As for kinds of obi, I'd say Nagoya obi and Hanhaba obi are a good choice to go with Edo komon - the latter being for a more casual style. Fukuro obi is probably too dressy from this level of kimono formality and "under".

Edo komon with sakura (cherry blossoms) pattern, worn with

taiko musubi, maybe the most versatile of all obi knots.

Now, to make things a bit complicated (as kimono loves to do ^^;)... Althou Edo komon technically has it's pattern made of dots, during my research for this post I found not-dotted kimono labelled as "Edo komon" (including at the store where this post's examples are from). It confused me a bit, but maybe any komon with very small, repeated, non-colored patterns can be considered "Edo komon"?

Here are some "Edo komon" patterns, but the two on the left 

aren't really made of dots - but small stripes and squares.

Interesting and a bit ambiguous... I wonder - and this is my supposition! Don't quote me on that! XD - if in that case, the most subtle the pattern, the more that Edo komon resembles an iromuji, therefore the less casual it is... On the other hand, Edo komon with bigger/more defined patterns - but that still looks like a "texture" - are more informal, being visually closer to the regular Komon...

This is labeled as Edo komon, but the pattern is big enought not to be mistaken with a solid color. Also, it's not made of dots, but little geometric shapes. Still, the effect is of a "texture" on the kimono... I wonder if that's the main aspect that defines Edo komon in the daily/comercial use of the term?

Looking from afar, this Edo komon with little squares seems pratically of solid color. Somehow it strikes me as more formal than the example above, with similar color scheme, but more visible patterns.

Tiny stripes versus small stripes. They're both labeled by the store as Edo komon, but the left one has a much softer texture effect, so - if I had to guess - I'd personally say it looks more formal than the one in the right. (I loved the subtle touches of red on the later one, by the way <3).

...I was planning to cover Komon on this post too, but Edo komon took too much space! XD I'l cover komon on the next post, so, thank you for your patience! ^^;

*These examples are from Kimono-Asobi, so, to see more Edo komon, go check it out! ^^

Types of Kimono - Iromuji

After seeing formal types of kimono, we'll now feature maybe the most versatile kind of kimono, that can go from quite formal to informal: the iromuji.

A red one-crested iromuji.

Iromuji (approximately "plain color") is a solid color kimono. It can be actually plain or have discrete damasque-like patterns (in a fabric called rinzu), but no colorful motifs. From a distance, iromuji will always look solid. It's worn by married and unmarried women, and can have any color except for white or black - since plain white or black kimono have other connotation, as we'll see ahead.

Note: In kimono culture, black isn't considered a "color" (iro). That's why irotomesode (color tomesode) and kurotomesode (black tomesode) have slightly different connotations and formality, like we've seen on the Tomesode section of this series.

Althou they can be plain, most iromuji have a soft motif/texture when you look up close. 

This damask-like effect is called rinzu. Photos from Kuwashi Rental and Sarakimono.

The most common tones for iromuji are subdued, giving this kind of kimono a dignified and mature feel (flashy colors are related to youth in kimono aesthetics). Since it's very discrete, iromuji is often worn during the japanese tea ceremony (cha-no-yu), that pursues an aesthetics of simplicity. Iromuji allows the focus to be on the ceremony itself (a colorful furisode, for example, would be a too bright distraction, as well as too formal, in most types of tea ceremony).

Examples of iromuji. The color possibilities are endless! Pink, purple, blue, green, yellow, 

orange, brown, reddish, gray, and so on... Notice how the tones tend to be soft or grayish.

 

 

Subdued tones, thou, are a tendency, not a rule, so there are also pretty vivid 

iromuji out there! =) Above, two examples: deep red and deep purple iromuji. 

Photos from muhvi on Immortal Geisha and Akiko Hiramatsu on kimonosnack.

Not only for tea ceremonies, iromuji is also adequate to wear from wedding receptions to graduation ceremonies (not if you're the one graduating!), formal and informal parties, and general social events like gatherings, dinners, exhibitions or concerts. This is because it can be matched with several kinds of obi to achieve various levels of formality: the formal fukuro obi, versatile nagoya obi or even the casual hanhaba obi.

Iromuji also can be found with a variate number of family crests (kamon), another important element in kimono formality. A kimono with no crests is very informal, while a kimono with 5 crests shows the higher level of formality. Iromuji can go from no crests up to one, three or full five crests, but usually have one crest (ideal for tea ceremony) or quite formal 3 crests*.

 

These coordinations of uncrested iromuji and obi with no brocade look "casual-dressy"

to me... maybe a good style for a go-out day? From Nadeshiko Peace.

Combined with brocade obi, iromuji become more formal, 

and can be worn in several kinds of events. From Nissen.

The obi musubi (knot) most commonly worn with iromuji is the classic otaiko (or just taiko) musubi. But, being this such a versatile garment, other musubi can be worn. Iromuji photos are quite hard to find compared to other kinds of kimono (people tend to like kimono with motifs more, I think...), and obi musubi isn't my forte - so I'm making a few suppositions in this point. Apart from taiko (which I'm certain it's adequate for iromuji) I think I've also spotted it being worn with tsunodashi musubi** (that usually looks like a "floppy" taiko with inside "wings"), bunko musubi (shaped as a big bow on the upper part of the obi) and others. These are more informal choices, thou, not fit for tea ceremony, for example.

Left: the classic taiko musubi, a formal choice, but that can also be worn in semi-formal situations - with a non-brocade obi, like in the "casual-dressy" examples of iromuji above. From Bushoan. Right: a variation of tsunodashi musubi (not floppy, but has "wings"). Tsunodashi is less formal than taiko, but with brocade obi it may have a festive and bit more formal feel, I guess? From muhvi on Immortal Geisha.

So, this is the basic about Iromuji. On the next part of this "Types of Kimono" series, we're going more and more informal with Edo-komon and Komon. See you! ^^

*On another small note: There are no kimono with 2 or 4 crests, if you're wondering. 
They're always put in the same position:

1 crest: under the eri (collar) at the back.
3 crests: same of one crest, plus the both front sides of the eri.
5 crests: same as three crests, plus both sleeves (over the elbow, more to the back)

** Tsunodashi musubi is also known as Ginza musubi. I spent quite a while trying to figure out the difference between them (they looked the same to me!) until I found out it's indeed the same knot. ^^;

 

Wafuku Question: Kamishimo

I was asked by spring-sky on DeviantArt about this kind of japanese period outfit:

This outfit is called Kamishimo. It's a combination of hakama pants and kataginu, a sleevless jacket, both made in the same fabric, worn over the kimono (ancient kimono was called kosode, or "small sleeves"). Kamishimo was worn daily by samurai men during the Muromachi, Sengoku and Momoyama periods (aprox. from 1337 to 1603). It could have various colors and patterns, and sometimes had the owner's kamon (family crest) on both sides of the chest/shoulders, and in the middle back of the kataginu.

Samurai from Sengoku period wearing kamishimo

(from the japanese drama Gou: Himetachi no Sengoku).

 

Notice the kamon on the shoulders and middle back of the 

kataginu jacket (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Another example (from the movie Kagemusha). 

These photo examples I found of kamishimo are quide subdued color-wise, but in those times, it was also common for men to wear gaudier colors and patterns, specially among upper classes. The two next photos don't show kamishimo, but the formal outfit for samurai in the Muromachi-Momoyama period, named hitatare. But it serves as an approximated example of the "flashy" styles that could be worn back then (althou, since kamishimo was more casual, it probably didn't go that far, gaudy-wise).

 

From the movie The Kiyosu Conference. Two

subdued and two "flashy" hitatare formal outfits.

 

Another gaudy hitatare, from the movie Kagemusha.

Sengoku samurai didn't fear bright orange tones! XD

 In Edo period (1603-1868), the subdued colors like grayish blue, gray and brown became "the rule" for male outfits, as well as more discrete patterns. Kamishimo became no longer daily, but formal outfit for samurai. The kataginu front pannels became more narrow, and the shoulders of the garment turned into wide, firm "wings".

Samurai in ceremonial kamishimo from Edo period. Notice the wide shoulders and long hakama (naga-bakama). In less formal occasions, normal hakama, that allowed one to walk easily, was worn (from the Kyoto Costume Museum).

Photography of samurai, from Edo period (from National Geographic) 

wearing a formal kamishimo, with regular hakama.

Edo kamishimo (from the movie The Sword of Desperation).

So, this is the basics about kamishimo. The info I referenced is from The Sengoku Daimyo, an amazing site with tons of historical info on Japan, so if you want to see more on the subject, I highly recommend it!

I hope this was useful, spring-sky! ^^

Lovely Iromuji

Small post to feature of this beautiful iromuji <3

I love how the soft butter yellow harmonically fits the discrete deep blue accessories... Plus, the obi motif (nicely following the yellow/blue colors in more subdued tones) is paper cranes! So cute and elegant, and auspicious, too! ^^

...Can't find the original source of the picture, sorry...

This is a tiny "preview" of the next kimono tutorial subject, Informal Kimono, which will start talking about this kimono type: the semi-formal iromuji.

My Pinterest account!

Follow me on Pinterest for lots of kimono, Japan & lovely things! ^^

http://www.pinterest.com/maihanami/boards/

Macarons!

...They're pastel, they're colorful, they're sweet, they're delicious, 

they're cute, they're parisian... How much better could macarons get?

See these and many, many other lovely macaron photos 

on this Pinterest pannel: Macarons <3

At last! My next Disney Princess!

After artblock, overwork, hand pain and internet crash, I've finnaly finished the next in my Disney Princesses illustration series! Beauty and the Beast's Belle! ^^

Belle is one of my favourite Disney princesses (I totally relate with her love for books! ^^). Her dress was, for some reason, terribly hard to come up with. And it turned out much more victorian-ish than rococo, but I like the fact it actually escaped the most common style choice for redesign (since the movie is somewhat set in the 18th century France).

For the color of the dress, I was in doubt between the classical golden yellow from the movie or a soft butter cream tone... In the end, gold looked much better, so I went further and made it an "antique gold", almost bronze - so the picture would get the "Old Fairytale Book" style I wanted for the series.

Painting the roses was lovely! ^^

For the next princess in the series, I'm in doubt between Ariel and Jasmine 

(both currently in the sketch step)... Votes? ^^ 

Jellyfish

I'm back! \o/

My hands are finally feeling better, so I'm back on posting! ^^

I'll try to post 2 days a week, but if I'll surely post at least once a week.

Starting from my new drawing: Jellyfish themed furisode!

I tried to stick with the concept without making it fantasy looking... Furisode with no patterns is uncommon, but since I wanted to show a water-like fabric, no pattern seemed to fit... 

Going crazy with the hair was surely fun! ^^

I'll post another kimono tutorial this weekend, a Geisha topic special!